Cleaning up glue.

Today’s work has been removing the glue from the sole of the cabin. The boat had a nasty carpet that was glued to the sole of the boat. A couple of days ago I remove the carpet. That left the floor a nice sticky mess. I  have been using citrustrip to soften up the glue then scrap it up with a scraper. It went well, got the majority of the glue up in a couple of sessions of scraping.

For the sole, I’m planning on putting down some vinyl stick on flooring from home depot. It comes in fake teak, woo. I’ll put this down after I’ve decided in what im doing as far as painting the interior of the boat. I’d ideally like to paint it all a nice white color, then have the teak as accent, Herreshoff style if you will.


Teak moving in the saloon

In an effort to make the stbd side of the saloon look a little better, and in the theme of resume, I’ve move the teak over from the galley to the stbd side of the saloon just aft if the cabinet enclosure. I used my hand pull saw today to cut the teak, it was much quieter then the power tools. For the galley I’m planning on a cabinet for the magna nesting pots and pans then a split shelf like that was there. Pictures when I get home.

Finished up the stbd side cabinet

With the half sheet of OSB I picked up last night. The pattern came out today with out me messing up. I broke the wheel on the routing bit I was using to trace the pieces, so I had to go back to the jig saw to get all the shape. I used many trail and error cuts, erring on the side of to large, then I’d try to trace a line to get the pieces to line up well. I did the same thing with the knee. The end product works out pretty well. I attempted to reuse the shelf that was there to split the cabinet into upper and lower parts. If I stick with this, I’ll have to make a new shelf as it does not meet up on the inside well.


I also pulled up all the carpet that was cover the sole of the boat. I spilled a quart of  varnish by the nav table the other day, and I wanted the carpet gone anyways. While I was at home depot I saw some Allure Plank, Teak vinyl laminate flooring. I’ve seem some pictures and read that some people have used this on there boat with good success.

I’ve been pondering the thought of moving the ladder more towards the stbd side of the boat, this would open up an area about 8″x20″ that you could put a couple of drawers.

Space for drawers, since I lack the 2/3 where the fuel tank is.

Enlisted some help today

I had some help today, so i was able to route the new 2″ exhaust hose, and get the stove/oven down to the boat. I bought 20′ of 2″ exhaust house a month or so back, when I started working on the galley. I needed to re route the hose that was already there. In doing so, I did some reading and learned that the beta marine 20, i suppose to have 2″ hose. It is 2″ to the muffler, then there was a reducer at the outlet, that went from 2″ to 1.5″. It also feed up thru the area that is now the dry stores, and what then routed behind the back of the stove. When trying to route it today, we learned that the 2″ hose will not fit at the narrow point. So I went below the the ice box, and then to the muffler. It was rather easy for that part. The loop, or rise was a pain as my help had left to go on with his day. I drilled a new 3″ hole in the aft part of the lazarette to route it towards the exhaust thru hole. I’ll need another day of help to get that install. There is not much more then 4″ of clearance to add a backing plate, so I’ve got a little ring of 4 3/8″ with a 2.5″ hole drilled out to fit the new exhaust thru hole. I’ll epoxy that to the hull, and then add some sealant to it. In routing the exhuast under the icebox and stove area, there is a low spot, which is not the ideal situation. I’m open to ideas if anyone has some. I’ll also need to get the T-bolt style hose clamps for the exhaust hose.

I also got the stove down to the boat. The mounts install, and a pretty decent test fit. Since I cannot get to the back of the fiberglass on the aft side of the stove, I drilled and tapped some 1/4″ machine bolt threads. The seem to do a pretty well job of holding the screws. The fwd side, is a bit short, so i had to add 3 washers to push out the mount enough to allow the mounts to hold the knobs on the stove. I went to West Marine, to get some 3/4″ 1/4 bolts, and they fit, that is when I learned that I’ll need the washer, which then means that the 3/4″ bolts are no good. The price for them was .59 each. Later in the day, on my way home, I stopped at home depot. The price there for 1.5″ 1/4 bolts, is .98 cents per 2, turns out all the little baggies are .98 cents, regardless of what material it is. So it looks like I’ll be going to home depot now for bolts and screws. They have a pretty solid selection of sizes, for a much better price then the ol’ West Marine.

I also picked up a 1/2 sheet of OSB to re do my pattern for the the cabinet face on the stbd side. So that will be tomorrows work.

This is why I make a pattern first.

Working on the cubby/cabinet for the stbd side today. I did the old measure and hope for the best with some extra. Well it failed me today, in both things I was cutting.

On the bright side, I will not have the same problem with the V-thing at the top as the curve or the width is different on the stbd side. So I can have the face to the cubby go to the top, I’ll just have to pattern out a new one. I also cut the new knee way to shallow, was trying to be fancy and measure stuff from the other side to use as a pattern.



Synthetic Rigging thoughts/ideas

I need new rigging, not sure how old it is, but it not super pretty. I’ve been toying with the idea of synthetic rigging for a bit. This is just a collection of what I think I’ve learned.

Sizing: It is sized for creep not strength. You need to keep the static tension on the shroud to <10% of breaking strength.

Strength: It is going to massively strong compared to the 3/16″ and 1/4″ 302/304 SS 1×19 original cable.

Bend radius: There is a debate between one of the companies that make some nice gear for this type of set up, that says you need a 8:1 bend radius. Sailing  Anarchy with there many tests say a >1:1 will provide full strength.

Throat angle: Samson rope guide list that 3:1 is the minimum and 5:1 is preferred.

Weight: Synthetic is way lighter then steel.

Windage: The synthetic line will have a larger diameter then the 1×19 SS, so there will be some gain in windage.

Brand: There is a couple of companies that make heat set dyneema. Most are SK-78 now, Dux is still SK-75.

What I think the Catalina 30 needs based on all this information.

Original Rigging was Stainless steel 302/304 1×19. 3/16″ Lowers and split on back stay. 1/4″ for Forstay, and uppers.

3/16″ 302/304 Breaking strength is 4700 lbs

1/4″ 302/304 Breaking strength is 8200 lbs.

Your max on this should be 20% so 940lbs for 3/16″ and 1640lbs for 1/4″, so that is what we will use to get to our <10% on the STS-HSR.

Breaking strength for 5mm is 9300lbs and 7mm is 18700lbs, 10% of these 930lbs, and 1870lbs.

The 5mm line, if the tension is set to 20% of the 3/16″ 1×19 SS 302/304, then we are looking at 10.1%, but that is over 10%, we will have crazy creep! The lower shrouds should not see a static load of 940lbs, dynamic maybe, but that will be short lived.

The 7mm line, if the tension is set to 20% of the 1/4″ 1×19 SS 302/304 then we are looking at 8.8%.

So far so good.

Strength over orginal is for 3/16″ (9300lbs/4700lbs x 100 =) 197% stronger, 1/4″ (18700/8200 x100 =) 228% stronger. Yikes!

Weight 3/16″/100 ft is 7.7lbs, 1/4″/100ft is 13.5 lbs.

Weight 5mm/100ft is 1.3lbs, 7mm /100 ft is 2.5lbs.

All said and told, there is about 20lbs of weight to be saved in the rigging.

Thimbles of the closed type or sailmaker thimbles can be used. They will all provide a bend radius of >2 based on what i can get from the spread sheet of data on them. Throat angle seems to be lacking, they look to be about 1.8:1 which is much less then the 3:1 Samson recommends.

Here is a google sheets I made while collecting the data. Catalina 30 Synthetic Rigging

More later.




Progress on the port cabinets and saloon seating

I’ve gotten some more progress towards the port side storage. It is starting to look like what I’ve envisioned.

The lip that is on the under side, the V-shaped thing has caused some problems with how I originally thought it would be. I knew there would be a problem, but it was hard to visualize without it being all the way there.  Though with some help from the Yahoo Groups, I may have found a solution. Just cut it short, and make it meet with the lip.

I’ve gotten the cutout for the doors cut as well, they will be about 12×16″ openings, i’ll have a shelf on the inside to divide up the space into two halves.

Here are the pics.

I’ve also been working on converting the big table open saloon (L saloon), to the dinette version with the  smaller square table in the middle, and another bench in the saloon. I do not remember the size of this, but it like 18x32x19″ (LxWxH).

Based upon the size i made it, I should be able to fit a 4 6v battery box in there, and make this the battery storage area. Which will be nice, as that amount of weight will be low and in the center. Downside to not putting it under the nav table, will be that I’ll have a long cable run of large cable.

Also made a wood version for the step to the v-berth.

Sewing projects

A couple of months back, at the swap meet, I found a Pfaff 332 Automatic. It has been mostly sitting.

Couple weeks back, I used my kayak’s for the first time. They have been sitting in the sun, next to the boat. The seats I could tell are starting to see the damage of the UV. I did some research on the Internet about kayak cockpit covers. It seemed almost to easy, and would make for a good project to make use of the sewing machine.

The hardest part, and took me two tries, before i got a good one, was the curve you have to sew around this. Use pins to hold the channel together. That one key part makes the rest of this as easy as it seems.

When doing all this research on using ripstop nylon, a common other project is to make a lightweight gathered end hammock, and stuff sack. Since that seemed easy, just a double folded seam on tall the edges, and a channel at the top and bottom. I gave that a shot, and using left over material made a stuff sack, which can hold the hammock, or a bottle of wine.


Also during this time, I learned how to make a continuous loop with dyneema, for the hammock. The local west marine has been holding some rigging classes on Thursday nights once a month. I’ve learned how to do a Brummel splice, and to splice 3 strand. So that helped when learning the continuous loop.

Think that is about it for random other things

Port side Storage

The plan is to make 2 cabinets, maybe 3 if i can figure out how to do the forward part. But with how the top of it is, it may be something I give up on, and leave it as a shelf.

I have reused the bulkhead that was on the port side, forward between the head and and V-berth. This causes the Knees for the aft chainplates to go from 3/4″ plywood, to 1/2″ plywood.

The chipboard/OSB is for the pattern, so that this can be cut to fit, and then transferred to MDO plywood.

Step for the V-berth prototype.

In a spree of working on cleaning and organizing down on the boat. I reinstall the bulkheads and the trim pieces around the head. I put in the shelf in the head, rehung the door (seems a tighter fit then before) and then installed the new storage area face for under the v-berth insert.

Then I tried to build a step for the V-berth, this took me some trial and error. I’ve got a mostly working thing that I should be able to transfer over to some wood and make the actually thing. But this is it for now.

In the head, there is no plan for a sink. It is awkward to stand over the head since it is much larger then a marine head. Also the main sink in the galley, is less then 10 feet away, a few steps at best. I’m going to come up with some kind of system to make most of the area above the counter area into drawer, and storage.